The feature story on sensory evaluation in the new issue of ASTM Standardization News brings back a fond memory of a rare victory over an overly smug colleague.

I developed a taste for sensory science as a young chemical engineer determined to prove that mass produced American lagers differed only imperceptibly—consumers being brain washed by deceptive advertisers. This hypothesis drew strong condemnation from one of my colleagues—a chemist named Harold who dissed lesser brews such as Old Milwaukee, which he deemed “Old Swillwaukee”.

To put this beer snob to the test, I organized a tasting at a Super Bowl party attended by a dozen or so fellow researchers. Beforehand, I engaged a sensory professional that our employer hired to guard against “off odors” from our manufacturing plants. She advised that we limit drinking of each beer to a small sip, then eat saltless crackers and wash them down with water before going to next brew. Also, both the presenter of the beer and the taster should be blind to the brand, thus avoiding bias.

However, given my mission to snub a beer snob, we first rated a selection of undisguised beers—including Miller, Budweiser, Old Milwaukee and others (in those days there were no ‘craft’ brews*). Harold rated “Old Swillwaukee” dead last. That was my plan! Then we repeated the tasting with the order re-randomized, but this time not revealing the names. Harold rated Old Milwaukee at the top of his list, thus providing a Super Bowl victory for me (badly needed being a Vikings fan).

My conclusion from this experience, and my work over the years helping food scientists improve the taste and other attributes of their products, is that it would be best to adhere by ASTM’s upcoming revision to Guidelines for the Selection and Training of Sensory Panel Members. For beer and the like, then bear down on the Standard Guide for Sensory Evaluation of Beverages Containing Alcohol (E1879).

We make panelists learn chemical names. For example, isoamyl acetate is a specific compound that smells like candy banana…I make panelists drink heavy cream for mouthfeel attributes. They’re unfazed by whatever we give them anymore because it’s always weird.

– Ali Schultz, sensory manager, New Belgium Brewing Company and leader of the current revision to E1879 (“Accounting for Taste”, ASTM Standardization News, January/February 2024)

However, if you are having a party, it’s more fun to be unprofessional and ignore the mandates to sip and spit, etc. ; )

*PS: The specialty beer brewers are getting a bit out of control nowadays, IMO. For example, I just got an alert from my Stillwater, Minnesota neighborhood microbrewer Lift Bridge to their release this weekend of Taking Care of Breakfast—a “barrel aged imperial breakfast stout aged in 10-year Willet and 6-year Wild Turkey bourbon barrels, infused with peanut butter and banana chips.” This new brew comes in at 12% ABV. Perhaps it may be best to go with orange juice first thing in the morning.